Day 68: Tuolumne Meadows & more Mosquito Misery
Date: Sun 6/24
PCT Start Mile: 926.1
PCT End Mile: 948.3
PCT Mileage for Day: 22.3
Total PCT Mileage: 948.3
The Highlights: Donohue Pass, Tuolumne Meadows, & more mosquitos
My alarm went off at 5 this morning. I wake up naturally, but set the alarm just in case. Noooo…. I wanted to sleep. But I also wanted to pack my stuff up before the swarm of mosquitos made its appearance. There were a few mulling about, but the swarm was not in full effect yet. I packed up quickly.
“They’re out already,” Squishy lamented as she shouldered her pack, referring to the mosquitos. It’s begun. We hiked up the trail, already swatting them away from our faces in the early morning. I had full rain pants and jacket on as morning mosquito armor, and pulled my head net on when things got really bad.
Our day started with a gradual 3.5 mile climb to the top of Donohue Pass at 11,074 ft., our entrance into Yosemite. The PCT runs through the eastern side of Yosemite National Park, far from the crowds of Half Dome, but still covering some beautiful terrain.
From the pass (where there were still mosquitos), we descended to below 9,000 ft. and leveled out (ish) in a flat to gentle decline for 9 miles to the Tuolumne Meadows Store, post office, and grill.
At around 11am, we had just under 7 miles to these beacons and I was already hungry and out of my morning snacks. Too lazy to dig into the bear canister in my pack, I trudged on, hangry and dejected. I was hungry.
Mosquitos made their appearance near water and shade. It was now sweltering in the sun and my rain pants were clinging to my sweaty legs. I couldn’t take them off, my legs couldn’t endure one more mosquito bite. I was tired. Mentally, I was struggling.
Entering the Tuolumne Meadow area the streams were clear and beautiful and the area was full of clean smelling day hikers. The trail hiked alongside the road and we passed parking lots and buildings. Where is the store! Where is the grill! I need food!
Finally we crossed over the Tuolumne River and not far down the road we arrived at the store, packed with hikers and tourists alike. Soon enough we were digging into double cheeseburgers, chips, and sodas. Followed by ice cream.
We also had the pleasure of catching up with Old Timer, who was taking a forced rest day here as he waited for a package. He unfortunately hadn’t realized he would be here on a Sunday and now needed to wait for the post office to open tomorrow.
At any rate, we always love running into him and it was great to chat. Three years into his retirement, he’s already done the Appalachian Trail and is kicking around ideas for his next hiking adventure after the PCT.
We stayed at the store, eating thing after thing at a shaded picnic table, for about two hours, finally hiking out again around 4pm. We only planned to hike about another 6 miles before camping for the night.
The last six miles, after finally returning to the trail after a bit of a gravel road walk, hiked through the woods, eventually following the Tuolumne River. After cutting away from Shawn and Squishy when nature called, I rejoined them up the trail, where they were soaking their legs in the river.
The remainder of the hike climbed up and down along the cliffs along the rushing riverside, eventually passing by Tuolumne Falls.
Hiking downstream from the falls, we crossed a bridge, forded a shallow side stream, and are now camped at the base of the other side of the falls at the Glen Aulin Sierra Camp.
While the camping area would typically be set up for visitors by now, it is likely not opening this season after last year’s high water from the above-average snowfall took out the foot bridge to the camp (which is why we had to wade across the river). So, the camp is pretty much abandoned for the year, save for the few random hikers camping here. And the 500 million mosquitos that occupy it, because it wouldn’t be any fun without them.
Once again, we covered up, set up the tent, and quickly threw everything inside. This time I braved the mosquitos with Shawn and Squishy to cook my dinner outside the tent, whilst continuously slapping mosquitos off me and swatting them away from my face. More bites on my butt during my pre-bed bathroom break. Sometimes, I do not like nature.
The ridiculousness of the mosquitos has been seriously draining our mental fortitude the past two days and we can’t wait to get away from all this water. Even a normal number of mosquitos would be fine, but camping amidst the swarms is very draining. Here’s hoping we can find a better campsite tomorrow night.
On the positive side, we will fall asleep to the shadowy dark figures of tall pines and the sound of the falls, and that is nice.
