Aruba Rock Climbing
Overview
Our Aruba trip was meant to be a relaxing vacation for a chance, but with our recent obsession with climbing I set out to find something on the island to climb.
As luck would have it there is a crag on Aruba, but not much information about it so I figured I might as well jot down some information for future climbers searching for some Aruba rock climbing.
Grapefield Climbing Area
The lone crag on Aruba is called the Grapefield climbing area, named I imagine due to it being located next to Grapefield Beach which is located near the southern most tip of the island.
Aruba is a pretty consistent 85 degrees year round and the nice thing about this crag is that it’s pretty much shaded past 10am (with the exception of Bringamosa wall, not shaded until about 2pm).
The crag is a mix of volcanic rock and it’s covered in coral meaning the rock can be very sharp so plan to bring some tape for your hands. Though the cliffs go on and on for as far as you can see, the crag itself is only 4 walls all right next to each other.
Approach
It’s easiest to rent a car for the day to get to the Grapefield Climbing Area.
A cheap compact car runs about $45 a day (full 24 hours) in Aruba. Though you will drive on a dirt road, you do not need a 4×4 to get there. The dirt road is hard packed and easily drivable.
If you do not wish to pay for a car, the Arubus does pass near the climbing area, but you’ll have about a 1.6km walk to get from where the bus drops off to the wall.
Most people stay towards the northern part of the island and although Aruba is only 20 miles long, it can take about 45 minutes to drive those 20 miles due to slow moving traffic so build in time for your drive.
The drive is pretty straight forward (due south on the main road) with only a couple of turns. You’ll want to follow the signs for Baby Beach and Sero Colorado. (Click images for larger)
The key thing you are looking for is this red anchor that marks your turn left onto the dirt road.
This is also the closest point that Arubus comes to the crag so if you’re taking the bus, this is where you want to get off.
After you make the left at the anchor (or begin your trek if you bused it) you will start down the unnamed dirt road.
You will see a prison on the bluff to your left and likely some kite surfers down at Grapefield Beach to your right.
Continue down the road and you will come to a dirt ATV race track. Keep going just past the track and you will see an obvious dirt path (car width) that heads in towards the cliffs.
Hang a left on that dirt path and drive straight toward the cliff. When you get to the cliff, straight in front of you is the scramble that you will use to get to the top of the walls and access the anchors to set up top ropes.
If you miss the turn in towards the cliff (you won’t) don’t fret, there is another access path a little farther down conveniently labeled with a “sign” (pic below). You can hang a left at that sign as well and get straight to the Bringamosa wall.
If you took the first left mentioned above, turn right at the wall and drive parallel to the cliff for a little ways and you will come to the first wall, Bringamosa.
There is a large dirt mound right in front of El Sol and Steady as She Goes which are the first two routes on Bringamosa.
Grapefield Climbs
As mentioned, there are 4 walls in the Grapefield crag.
In order they are Bringamosa, Tears, Garbage, and Birdwatch.
The ratings on the walls are questionable at best as not a lot of people actually climb here. You will likely have the entire place to yourself. Each of the routes on the walls are painted on the rock with the name and rating (French System).
Some of the route markers have washed away over the years so some are easier to find than others. What is nice is that the anchors at the top of the walls are also painted with the route names near the anchors so if you can’t find it on bottom, you may be able to find it up top.
On top plan to wear some sturdy approach shoes (not flip flops) because the ground is all coral rock and broken glass. The top is also very windy most days so be careful when setting up your top rope. The anchors are set back from the edge on most climbs so plan to bring some longer slings and extra biners to extend your anchor over the edge and not chew up your rope.
You’ll also want to take care when tossing your rope over the edge as the wind will grab it and snag it on all sorts of little snags on the coral. If your rope doesn’t make it, you can always rap down and clear it as you go.
Bringamosa
Bringamosa has 6 routes and is a great wall for beginners or just to warm up on.
By warm up we mean of course roast in the sun until it gets shaded at around 2pm but hey you’re in Aruba what did you expect?!
All of the routes are top rope and pretty much straight up.
Bringamosa Wall
El Sol 5.8 – Top Bolts
Steady As She Goes 5.6 – Top Bolts
Iguana 5.8 – Top Bolts
Voor Jos 5.8 – Top & Lead Bolts
Hard/Suf 5.9 – Top Bolts
Terug naar Osdorp 5.9 – Top Bolts
Tears
Around an obvious corner to the right of Bringamosa you will see the Tears wall.
It is overhanging and has the hardest routes at Grapefield up to 5.12b. It also has the most routes at 15. Most routes are bolted for sport and there are plenty of anchors. Technically you could top rope here, but if you peel off you’re swinging into no mans land so if you plan to climb these, bring a rack of draws.
Tears is shaded after 10a and you can park right up close to the wall in the shade. The sports bolts have been here a long time so as always, check your bolts before trusting your life with them.
Tears Left
Tears Wall Left
Warawara Dream 5.10c – Only Top Bolts Reliable, Glue Bolts shouldn’t be trusted
May The Force Be With You 5.10 c/d – Only Top Bolts Reliable, Glue bolts shouldn’t be trusted
The Power Of The Schwartz 5.9 – Only Top Bolts Reliable
Arubaanse Zoab 5.12b – Only Top Bolts Reliable
Fly The Difference 5.11d – Only Top Bolts Reliable
Swansational 5.11b – Lead Bolts
Tears For Fears 5.10d – Lead Bolts
t. 40 meter traverse
Tears Right
Tears Wall Right
Tears For Fears 5.10d – Lead Bolts
Masha danki Lago 5.11b – Only Top Bolts Reliable, Rusty Bolts should not be trusted
KIA 5.11b – Only Top Bolts Reliable, Rusty Bolts should not be trusted
Brokki Brokki 5.11d – Only Top Bolts Reliable, Rusty Bolts should not be trusted
Avenida diagonal 5.10c – Lead Bolts
This is Grapefield 5.10b – Only Top Bolts Reliable, Rusty Bolts should not be trusted
Garbage
To the right of Tears after the overhanging sections end, you’ll find the Garbage wall.
This is said to be the beginners wall but the rock is pretty chossy. It’s only 4 routes and they are the easiest at the crag but sketchy. You can visually see the difference in the rock on this wall in comparison to the others. Just be careful if you do try and head up.
Garbage Wall
This is Grapefield 5.10b – Top Bolts
Parkietenbos 5.6 – Possibly Lead Bolts
Pure Garbage 5.9 – Top Bolts
Biba Lekker 5.6 – Top Bolts
El Novato 5.6 – Top Bolts
Birdwatch
Last but not least we’ve got Birdwatch. The end of the line.
Just 3 routes here as well but they were my personal favorite: 5.7 Machismo, 5.8 Masochismo, and 5.9 Absurdismo.
They are all right next to each other, though the only label you can clearly see at the bottom is Masochismo. Up top, all three anchor sets are right next to each other. Once I found the Machismo anchors, we dropped rope and then found the very faded start label. It’s just to the left of Masochismo as the picture below shows.
Absurdismo 5.9 – Top Bolts
Machismo 5.7 – Top Bolts
Masochismo 5.8 – Top Bolts
Machismo start just to the right of the rope. Masochismo start marked on the far right
Final Thoughts On Aruba Rock Climbing
Bringing our gear was definitely worth it to get some solid climbing in while we visited Aruba.
The crag is easily accessible and you’ll have NO ONE there to compete for routes. Just remember it’s desolate and hot so bring lots of water!
A quick note on gear: we brought a 60m rope, harnesses, shoes, chalk, 1 rack of draws, and the standard rack of anchor building supplies (lockers/slings/cord/etc.)
Since I didn’t need to bring a variety of clothes (tank tops and board shorts) my REI Trail 40 served as the climbing gear bag and my carry on. I even fit our snorkeling gear in there too. I brought my other small 18L pack for the small amount of clothing I needed and that worked out great!
