Day 47: Last Day in the Desert!
Date: Sun 6/3
PCT Start Mile: 672.8
PCT End Mile: 698.3
PCT Mileage for Day: 25.5
Total PCT Mileage: 698.3
The Highlights: trail magic, wrapping up the desert miles, and a swim in the river
Today we were up at the crack of dawn, yesterday’s slog through the heat fresh in our minds. We were eager to get in early miles before the temps were boiling. Death by sunshine.
Our hike started with about 8 miles to the next water source. After finishing up the climb we camped along last night, the majority of the hike was downhill. As an added bonus there was trail magic at a road crossing near the small creek, and so, we enjoyed some decently cold sodas at 8:30am.
By 9am, we were off to the next water source, only another 2.5 miles up the trail. Here, after filling water, we talked to some of the other hikers. It was about another 4 miles to the top of the climb we had started after the last water source and most planned to tackle the rest of the climb before taking their lunch break near the top.
I made the comment, “hopefully there will be enough shade up there.” At this remark, another hiker jokingly commented, “yeah, I think there will be a few trees…”, kind of motioning his eyes around to the forest we were currently surrounded by. Fair enough point, I guess. Hopefully the forest would continue. It didn’t.
Shadeless burn area.
After about a mile, I rounded a corner and the landscape became stark. The surrounding hillsides were full of downed and charred trees. A huge burn area.
There was absolutely nothing that would throw shade visible anywhere near the trail, or even far. Fortunately the climb was relatively mellow and I met Shawn at the top. Once Squishy arrived, we hiked on, hoping to eventually find shade.
The bushes with yellow flowers have been my favorite desert plant/tree.
It took about a mile and a half, but we eventually found a large pine along the trail that was throwing a good bit of shade. Three hikers were already rested under it, but there was room for three more.
Here I finally met a brother and sister duo that I had heard about. Shawn had met them earlier along the trail and described them as the “nicest people ever”, and they really were. Kevin and Shannon from Ohio. They might actually be the nicest, most encouraging people you could ever meet, and they were great lunch companions to boot.
Lots of rocky sections the past two days.
It was at lunch we decided to head further than our original plan for the day, which was now only a little over 4 miles down the trail at the next water source.
We decided we’d hike another 8 miles instead, to the south fork of the Kern River, which is a large river and was rumored to be excellent for a swim. A swim in the sweltering afternoon heat would be awesome. We set out.
After four miles, we arrived at Manter Creek, the original site we had planned on camping for the night. The creek was little more than a puddle and the site fairly uninspiring. We were glad we’d decided to hike on. We filtered some water, topping off our bottles, and hiked toward the Kern River.
Hiking through pines. Out of the desert?!?
The hike was another 4.5 miles and it seemed that the day had grown steadily hotter. Making our way through desert landscape, we eventually entered a large grove of pine trees. Out of the desert at last! Or so I thought, but the shaded trail through the pines eventually kicked us back out into the desert. Damn.
Epic fail at getting a picture of the river.
Finally the river came into view. It was the largest river we’d seen in nearly 700 miles, or at least since Deep Creek, almost 400 miles ago.
We weaved our way down the trail toward the river, eventually sneaking down a small side trail to the water. Twinkle Toes, Jinx, and a few other hikers were soaking in the cool waters and we quickly joined them.
Ahhhh…. the beautiful river seemed a fitting way to wrap up our desert miles and make our entrance into the Sierras.
Tonight we are camped along the river, listening to the water rush over the rocks. Tomorrow we have only a few miles to reach Kennedy Meadows, the official southern entrance to the Sierras.
It’s so amazing to finally be nearing Kennedy Meadows, leaving the desert behind. The desert is actually the longest section of the PCT at ~702 miles from Campo to Kennedy Meadows.
It has been beautiful, it has been brutal. We had rattlesnake encounters, beautiful sunsets, and punishing heat. We cowboy camped on a wind farm and hiked through snow in the mountains. We ate buffets of hot dogs, ice cream, and sodas provided by trail angels, and counted the miles to every water source.
We hitched into fantastic little mountain towns and met the furry mayor of Idyllwild. We hid under the shade of Joshua Trees, bushes, bridges, and anything casting a shadow. We walked along the LA aqueduct and through wind farms. We soaked in hot springs and watched horny toads and lizards dart along the trail. I saw more types of snakes than I ever wanted to.
The desert is an amazing landscape and we have enjoyed its pleasures, though are happy to leave its heat behind. Tomorrow we enter Kennedy Meadows and the next chapter of our adventure begins.
