Day 8: Khangshar to Tilicho Tal Base Camp
Approximate Trekking Time: 3 – 4 hrs.
Distance: 8.9k / 5.5 miles
Overnight Elevation: 4140m/13,583ft.
We woke again to the pitter patter of rain on the rocks outside of our room… not the sound we wanted to hear on a day with exposed trail sections that are not recommended in the rain. We lingered over breakfast, waiting as the rain eventually fizzled out before deciding to pack up our bags and head for the Tilicho Tal Base Camp, the closest lodging to the hike up to Tilicho Lake.
Climbing the trail through Khangshar, we followed signs for Tilicho Tal along the trail, which became more arid and barren the further we progressed, dry gravel and rock with scrubby juniper and alpine grasses, eventually climbing through Shree Kharka about an hour past Khangshar. The single-track trail continued climbing upward before descending to a suspension bridge, only to climb back up short steep switchbacks on the other side.
From the top of the switchbacks, the trail continued around the mountainside, eventually becoming very narrow, traversing along steep rocky scree slopes. Due to the unstable rocky slopes, this section of the trail is a potential risk for landslides and rock fall. Additionally, with narrow exposed trails, it is not recommended to travel over this portion of the trail through rain or snow. One of the guidebooks we read recommended that only “experienced hikers” make the trip out to Tilicho Tal due to this section of trail. While caution should certainly be exercised, overall we did not feel this section was as perilous as it was made out to be in the guidebooks and hope that hikers weren’t skipping the trip out to Tilicho Tal if they’d read this. Also, this section of the trail was really quite unique, with interesting rock formations jutting out of the slopes. Mostly flat to slightly downhill grades made for easy hiking along the slope as well.
This section turned a bit rockier as we rounded the mountainside and Tilicho Tal Base Camp (4140m/13,583ft.) came into view, sitting alongside a small stream at the foot of a rocky moraine. In the past, only one lodge was located here, but there are now three lodges operating. We stayed at the first one we came to, the New Tilicho Base Camp Hotel.
The hike from Khangshar had taken less than 3 ½ hours and we were at the lodge in time for lunch. Tilicho Tal Base Camp is one area where you will find that things are priced separately from the room price (showers, charging, Wi-Fi – all extra charges, see the logistics section). The lodges here also have electricity only in the dining room area, with no electricity in the rooms, so it’s important to make sure you have a headlamp along for nighttime (particularly late night trips to the bathroom). Once it’s dark, it’s dark. While I believe you could pay to charge something, it’s a good idea to make sure your camera or other devices are charged prior to arriving. Despite the remote location, the shower here (gas) was among the best along the circuit.
