Day 17: Ghasa to Tatopani
Approximate Trekking Time: 4 – 5 hrs.
Distance: 15.8k / 9.8 miles
Overnight Elevation: 1200m/3937ft.
Today was an easy hike- both the hike itself as well as the route. Just south of the Eagle’s Nest Guesthouse, we crossed a suspension bridge over the Kali Gandaki to an alternate trail that followed the east bank of the river nearly all the way to Tatopani, sometimes following right along the river, others high above it, but always we could hear the rush of the river.
After walking through barren and desert-like landscapes after the pass, then eventually through pine forests, we had now made it back to denser vegetation, with many species of trees, plants, tall grasses, and flowers hugging the trails, and with them a symphony of insects – cicadas, crickets, and others – in some areas so loud that they nearly drown out the rushing rapids of the river.
The first 2 ½ hours or so along the trail took us up and down rough stone stops – some more step-like and others more just piles of stones to pick our way up and down. The route took us through a number of small villages, most simple and without the typical signs of tourism – no lodges or shops – only people going about daily life, herding cows, having their haircut, or sitting on their stoop watching the day go by.
The trail passed a number of waterfalls threading their way down the mountainsides both on our own side of the valley, where we stepped gingerly across stones through the streams and pools, and along the far side of the valley. One home had left a small gap in the row of tall flowers planted along a fence along the ridge, leaving a perfect viewpoint to a beautiful waterfall on the opposite side of the valley.
The last couple hours of the trek flattened out more, a stroll along the river with only gentle climbs and descents, before crossing a bridge to the road on the other side of the valley about a mile (1-2km) before Tatopani. While I think it was possible to take the trail a bit further south toward Tatopani, it was actually quite nice to cross to the other side of the valley, as now we could see the scenery along the trail we had just been walking – long streaming waterfalls, terraced fields, scattered homes along the mountainsides, and a snowcapped peak behind us to the north.
Approaching Tatopani (1200m/3937ft.), the path through the village diverged from the road, which continued along the river, the village set on the hillside above. Here, we found a room at the Dhaulagiri Lodge where, in addition to an extensive menu, had a great courtyard and was situated directly above the hot springs the village was named for. The shower here, on the other hand, was definitely not hot or even lukewarm, but a very frigid ice cold. When we asked about hot showers upon arrival, the owner said “we have hottest hot springs. Why you need hot shower?” Fair enough.
Tatopani literally means “hot water” (tato = hot, pani = water) and the town was named so for its hot springs. Situated just below our guesthouse, we soon made a visit to soak our weary legs. While there are two pools, they are alternated so that only one is in use at any given time. Unlike the hot spring in Chame, the large shallow pool here was PIPING hot, so much so that you could only soak for a bit before climbing out to sit along the edge. We wiled away an hour or more talking to other trekkers as we alternated from soaking in the water and sitting along the edge of the pool. This was a relaxing way to spend the afternoon before tomorrow’s killer climb to Ghorepani!
