Day 35 - BEACH DAY in Ribadeo
Date: Friday July 19
Start: Ribadeo, Galicia
End: Ribadeo, Galicia
Daily Mileage: NA
Total Mileage: ~402mi (~647km)
Today we FINALLY got our beach day!
When we originally set out on the Camino del Norte, over a month ago at this point, I figured we would have ample opportunity to visit beaches and soak in the sun on our rest days. We were doing a coastal walk, after all. Beaches aplenty. Thus far, however, that typically had not worked out well for us.
It seemed that while we were hiking, the temps were mostly hot and humid, and nearly every time we took zero days along the coast, the weather was cold, cloudy, or raining. In the words of Ken from the Barbie movie, our overall sentiment was “I CAN’T EVEN BEACH HERE!”
But finally, on our last day along the coast, we had a glorious sunny day. Perfect for beaching.
After a late lie in and a breakfast where we managed to find something other than Spanish tortilla (!), on the recommendation of the woman working the desk at our hotel last night, we took a taxi to Praia dos Castros, a beautiful beach tucked between layered cliffsides along the northern coast, about five miles outside of the city center.
Grand entrance to our much anticipated beach day...
The temps were perfect – sunny but not so hot that you were desperate for shade. The beach had plenty of people scattered about, but wasn’t at all crowded. And the turquoise blue water was cool and refreshing without being too cold (after that initial few steps in, of course).
Finally!
We lazed. We swam. We read. We people watched. We snacked on cookies with melty chocolate. It was the perfect beach day.
Later in the afternoon, back in Ribadeo, with the help of the lovely woman at the hotel – once again, we found a place that served food between the hours of 5-8pm. Imposible. Total win.
Fancy agua con gas. From liquid hot mag-ma.
After our late lunch/early dinner, while Shawn went off to find another pair of hiking shoes, I strolled about the main plaza area a bit. I walked by one of the most famous buildings of Ribadeo – the Torre de Los Moreno – which was, given my attendance, completely covered in scaffolding. The plaza was still a pleasant visit though. Early evening shadows were creeping in. Kids played in the park. A saxophonist entertained the passerbys and those lingering on benches.
This time I just let them know I was coming so they could go ahead and get all this scaffolding set up without a huge rush. I’ve registered my approximate end date in Santiago de Compostela, so they’re probably already decking the cathedral in scaffolding in preparation for our arrival...
Since Shawn was doing his own shopping, I decided to window shop a bit myself. I even stopped into a few places to peruse the racks and – gasp – tried on and bought a top. If I haven’t noted it before, I am a terrible shopper. Shawn was so proud of me.
Meanwhile, Shawn found a pair of Hokas to continue the trail. After just over 400 miles of hiking, our shoes are wearing down. The tread is becoming scant and I’m sure the midsoles aren’t much to speak of. We are both starting to feel the ground quite well underfoot. Too well.
We are both using Altras, which – in our PCT days – used to hold up well for about 450-500 miles of use (more or less). Some could stretch them a little further, but you started feeling it. Not anymore though. Between a lot of pavement walking and, what I suspect is inferior quality compared to previous models, you’re lucky to get a good 350 miles out of them now. Like everything else, price goes up every year, but quality seems to go in the opposite direction.
Anyway, Shawn has been feeling it in his achilles quite a bit the last couple days hiking and doesn’t want to take any chances. Which is smart.
I have another pair of shoes waiting for me in Santiago, so I’m pushing through on mine. I have the occasional niggle - feel the achilles a bit, calves are more sore than they should be, a dull ache in the IT band from time to time, or short-lived twinge in the knee... but none of these issues seem to stick around. I’ll cross my fingers that nothing becomes problematic in this last week+.
That’s all we have left! If all goes to plan, we’ll be in Santiago de Compostela in eight days!! While I’m sad to leave the coast, it’s exciting to be on the final stretch of this amazing walk. We’re looking forward to seeing what the rest of Galicia holds in store for us, beach day now checked off the list!